Download PDF The Broken Road: From the Iron Gates to Mount Athos By Patrick Leigh Fermor
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Ebook About The long-awaited final volume of the trilogy by Patrick Leigh Fermor. A Time of Gifts and Between the Woods and the Water were the first two volumes in a projected trilogy that would describe the walk that Patrick Leigh Fermor undertook at the age of eighteen from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople. 'When are you going to finish Vol. III?' was the cry from his fans; but although he wished he could, the words refused to come. The curious thing was that he had not only written an early draft of the last part of the walk, but that it predated the other two. It remains unfinished but The Broken Road - edited and introduced by Colin Thubron and Artemis Cooper - completes an extraordinary journey.Book The Broken Road: From the Iron Gates to Mount Athos Review :
One of the landmarks of travel literature is Patrick Leigh Fermor's three-volume account of his 1934 trek across Europe as a nineteen-year-old. To be sure, though, to characterize the books as "travel literature" may do them a disservice, both because they eclipse almost all other representatives of the genre and because they are much more than a travelogue. PLF mixes in history and ethnology in such an engaging and informative fashion that the books are sui generis.The first two volumes, which I have also reviewed on Amazon, are "A Time of Gifts" and "Between the Woods and the Water". The second one ended with PLF at the Iron Gates, a gorge on the Danube River between Serbia and Rumania. In THE BROKEN ROAD, PLF resumes his journey through portions of Rumania and much of Bulgaria, crisscrossing that country three times. He travels mostly on foot, sometimes sleeping rough; sometimes staying with shepherds, gypsies, or farmers; sometimes with friends he makes along the way; and on a few occasions with the upper crust.One of the more memorable lodgings was at the "Savoi-Ritz" in Bucharest. When he came upon it, he thought it a small hotel, "about my level, in spite of its daunting name." It turned out to be a brothel and entertaining indeed is PLF's account of late-night, after-work dinner with the five girls of the establishment -- one from Bukovina, a Moldavian, a Transylvanian, a German from a town in the Carpathian passes, and a Gagauz from the Dobrudja ("I gazed at her with the reverence of an ornithologist at the glimpse of an Auckland Island merganser"). Another night was spent with six Bulgarian shepherds and four Greek fishermen in a cave along an isolated inlet of the Black Sea on the coast of Bulgaria. Against a crackling wood fire, PLF witnessed several soulful folk dances, fueled by the raki that PLF had carried in his rucksack. At the opposite end of the spectrum, while staying at the apartment of a German diplomat in Rumania PLF went to a dinner party for Artur Rubinstein, where the great pianist played Chopin after which there broke out "dancing and drinking at an uninhibited tempo".What helps make THE BROKEN ROAD and its two predecessors special is that PLF wrote them, contemplatively, forty to sixty years after the journey itself, with the benefit of the intervening years of life lessons and much scholarship. This gives him greater perspective as well as the opportunity to interlace the story of his travels with fascinating information about the history and the peoples of the places he visits. One small example, this one of the hatred between the Bulgars and the Byzantines: "The hatred is epitomized on either side by the act of one Byzantine emperor, Basil the Bulgar-slayer, who totally blinded a captured Bulgarian army of ten thousand men, leaving a single eye to each hundredth soldier so that the rest might grope their way home to the [Bulgarian] czar: a spectacle so atrocious that the czar, when the pathetic procession arrived, died of grief and shock."PLF's prose is rather baroque in its intricacies, and his vocabulary is prodigious. He is prone to elaborate lists and flights of fancy, both of which are evident in his account of when, while trudging along a railway, the Orient Express suddenly appears out of the darkness and whisks past him, setting him to thinking about "its freight of runaway lovers, cabaret girls, Knights of Malta, vamps, acrobats, smugglers, papal nuncios, private detectives, lecturers in the future of the novel, millionaires, arms' manufacturers, irrigation experts and spies."PLF worked on writing the third volume of his pan-European journey off and on between 1990 and his death in 2011, at age ninety-six. He never finished it. It ends mid-sentence, with the youthful PLF still in Bulgaria, about 120 miles short of his goal, which was Constantinople (as he preferred to call the city). As a point of biography, PLF spent several weeks in Istanbul and then embarked on a tour of the Greek Orthodox monasteries on the rugged peninsula of Mount Athos. During that excursion he maintained a detailed diary, the eighty pages of which are appended to THE BROKEN ROAD. It is entitled "Mount Athos", and it can be skipped. The contrast between it and THE BROKEN ROAD and its two predecessors is stark. As keen an observer as the youthful PLF was, the books written forty and more years later are so much richer and more engaging. They transcend travel literature; for me they are literature pure and simple, and they are among the highlights of my reading career. In 1934, Patrick Leigh Fermor, then 18 years of age, set off to walk from Holland to Constantinople, traversing a Europe that would be largely devastated and irrevocably changed within a few short years. I recently read the first two volumes of this Trilogy, A Time of Gifts: On Foot to Constantinople: From the Hook of Holland to the Middle Danube (New York Review Books Classics) and Between the Woods and the Water: On Foot to Constantinople: From The Middle Danube to the Iron Gates (New York Review Books Classics) . Obviously enthralled, I had to finish the story, and it was another excellent read. As with the other two volumes, he is writing this many decades after his originally hike, and so he has imposed more than a half century of erudition upon his youthful memories. At first glance, it may not seem to "work," but it certainly did for me. This volume is somewhat different than the first two, in that it was not finished when he died. It ends, literally in mid-sentence, and he has not quite reached Constantinople. Colin Thubron and Artemis Cooper have skillfully edited the work. They noted that he had written virtually nothing about the end point of his hike. Afterwards, he decided to tour the monasteries on the Mount Athos peninsula, in northern Greece. That account is some 80 pages of this book, and is produced as he wrote it in his diaries of the time. Thus, the reader can contrast the two styles, one a more straightforward youthful account, the other the decades of erudition layered on the original trip. He celebrated his 20th birthday in the St. Panteleimon monastery, in February, 1935, having obtained far more of an education that most people do in a lifetime.Volume 3 commences at the Iron Gates on the Danube (the rocky narrows of the river), and soon Fermor is in Bulgaria, and his travels there constitute most of the book. He traverses the country, more or less, three times, north to south, and back, and back again. Like the other volumes, he weaves arcane (certainly to me) historical information with the chance encounters of the road. I knew very little about Bulgaria, on the losing side in two world wars, and a "loser" in terms of territory to its neighbors. Bulgaria was also an integral part of the Ottoman Empire for almost half a millennium, finally "liberated" by the Russians, towards the end of the 1800's. Fermor emphasizes in numerous ways what is "received wisdom" in Western Europe: the ethnic hatreds in the Balkans run deep.Even though only 18, he is the "perfect English gentleman," in that he never "kisses and tells." So radically different from today. Of the various women along the way, the most enticing seemed to be Nadejda, who is half Greek, living in Plovdiv, on the Maritza River, in southern Bulgaria. Quite liberated; no doubt the fact that both parents are dead is a factor. She fashions herself to be a student at the Sorbonne. I just read The Odyssey for the first time, so was more than a little impressed that they would both reference this work, together, at 18. Talk about being on the same wavelength. She would be the goddess on Calypso, and retain Odysseus in Plovdiv. But like Homer's hero, Fermor decides to "move on." I think I might have lingered a while longer.The author crosses the Danube again, entering Romania, for three weeks of the good life in Bucharest. He describes the strong French influence permeating the elites. The third traverse is along the Black Sea coast, and there are vivid depictions of Bulgarian dancing, as well as the Sarakatsani, the only completely nomadic tribe in the Balkans. He would later describe these people in much greater detail in his book, Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece (New York Review Books Classics) . The author has such a keen eye for the natural world, in which he often slept. Rich and lively depictions, as autumn deepen into winter. And somehow he weaved in his family's Anglo-Indian history via letters. In a less skilled writer, it would have been a mishmash. With Fermor, it flowed smoothly.In deep winter he visited 20 some Christian Orthodox monasteries on the Mount Athos peninsula. He travels by foot between almost all of them, which is the operative means of transportation there. The monks are hospitable to travelers, and are impressed with the smattering of languages he has acquired. The food, he relates, was less than inspiring. Was he a "seeker"? Like with the women he meets along the road, he never really says, though one insight was provided during his brief stay in the small village of Daphni. One resident inferred that all the religion on the peninsula was just so much bunkum. Fermor demurred.Fermor went on to live for many years in Greece, and wrote a number of books on the country, one of which was mentioned above. I'm sure I'll be reading them in the future. For volume three of the long walk, successfully completed, 5-stars, plus. 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